The Gouffre d'Esparros, a fabulous underground crystal garden

The nature of the Pyrenees is incredibly beautiful and never ceases to surprise us throughout our discoveries. The valley of the Baronnies, a small limestone region in the piedmont of the central Pyrenees, conceals many precious and little-known treasures, hidden in the heart of its undulating reliefs and its vast forests. Among these wonders, an exceptional French underground natural heritage site dug over a million years ago is not to be missed under any circumstances : the Gouffre d'Esparros. Nicknamed the "Jardin de Cristal", this cavity sculpted by water and erosion, with walls studded with crystals, offers nature lovers a breathtaking journey into the lair of the depths of the earth... the abysses?

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The Gouffre d'Esparros, guided tour of a fragile and protected site

To start this journey, you will need a good pair of shoes, a jacket to cover yourself (temperatures hardly exceed 13 degrees) and an explorer's soul! At an altitude of 700 meters, the Gouffre d'Esparros is a classified site which benefits from exceptional study and protection measures, it cannot be discovered on a free visit. Guided tours lasting 45 minutes are organized from the reception, located at the entrance to the chasm, to better regulate the number of visitors to the site: reservations are therefore strongly recommended.

The history of the discovery of this geological site is fascinating. Legend has it that the entrance to the Gouffre was spotted by a shepherdess looking for a lost lamb in a hollow in the rock. However, the caver Norbert Casteret was the first to enter the bowels of the Gouffre d'Esparros on June 25, 1938 after seven years of research. In 1983, the Ministry of the Environment listed the Gouffre d'Esparros among the 12 most beautiful caves in France to be protected as a priority for their exceptional heritage. In October 1987, it was classified as a Natural Site for its high concentration of aragonite crystals which are among the most beautiful concretions in the world.

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The Gouffre d'Esparros, a sumptuous underground palace

  

It is therefore in a small group that we are about to explore the chasm, whose entrance is through a dark tunnel that leads to a room. The guide asks us "Do you know the difference between a cave and a chasm?" A cave is a horizontal cavity while a chasm is a vertical cavity. The entrance to a cave opens into a wall, that of a chasm opens into the ground. The visit begins, punctuated by light. As the group advances, the LED lights installed on the ground and on the walls are triggered by detecting our approach. We cross a wet path, amazed by the volumes around us. Here, the light guides our attention, the grandeur and delicacy of the sculptures grabs it. Captivated, our gaze is imbued with the serenity of the place, the beauty of the scintillating walls, the majestic shapes of the stalactites , stalagmites, draperies and other columns without being able to linger there. The light goes out and the group continues the tour in the upper part of the cavity.

  

We climb about fifty steps to discover the magical spectacle of this underground temple : hundreds of stalactites, eccentric sculptures with supernatural hues, bewitching play of shadow and light. The Esparros chasm reveals its treasure to us: delicate crystals of aragonite or " rock crystal ", spring from the walls like stone flowers, sometimes resembling white coral, sometimes like tiny translucent cauliflowers, formed by drops over the millennia… The spectacle is magical!

  

We go through several rooms, each one more surprising than the next. On the ceiling, the rock takes on spectacular concretions defying the laws of weightlessness. The gypsum crystals shine like a wall of diamonds. The last part of the visit is impressive : the cave widens and we overlook a body of water with turquoise hues which streams peacefully towards the depths. We contemplate this sumptuous lake room with enchantment. The river plays hide and seek in a labyrinth of cavities and rock laces in the most absurd shapes. Such a profusion is quite rare to observe.

  

The lights go out again, we must already head for the exit. Time flies so quickly when you attend such a magical show! The visits are linked to ensure a limited number of people at the same time in the enclosure of the chasm with a sensitive climatological balance. The presence of visitors and the release of carbon dioxide in too large a volume could jeopardize the aragonite formations and the entire unique ecosystem of this natural phenomenon shaped by nature over millions of years.

  

We return to the exit to the surface of the earth still imbued with the magic of this true masterpiece of nature!    

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Some tips for your visit

• Put on well! The landscaped course remains permanently slippery with the ambient humidity.
• The temperature is around 13 degrees all year round, we advise you to take warm clothing.
• To protect this natural setting, it is not possible to take photos or film during the visit.
• In high season you will surely not be the only ones wanting to discover this wonder! Online reservation on the Gouffre d'Esparros website or by phone will skip the queue.

Did you like this report? Find others on the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide Blog. We are on social networks, find the Facebook page of the Toulouse Pyrénées Guide and the Instagram account @Guidetoulousepyrenees

 

Report and photos produced by Lesley Williamson for the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide

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