Unusual visit to the Carmelite Convent of Pamiers

Among the countless treasures hidden in Ariège and the Pays de Foix, certain small towns of character offer a real step back in time. Nicknamed “the city of three bell towers, the ancient episcopal city of Pamiers is particularly distinguished by its religious heritage: from the Saint-Antonin Cathedral to the Notre-Dame-du-Camp Church, including the Mint Tower, there is no shortage of remarkable monuments! Among its most beautiful architectural jewels, the Carmelite convent of Pamiers, founded in 1648, opens its doors to the public eager for authentic experiences during exclusive visits organized by the Portes d'Ariège Pyrénées Tourist Office. In the heart of the city, it is a unique and discreet place, still inhabited by the soul of the Carmelite sisters who lived there, recluse, hidden from the world for three centuries. Today the nuns have left but this magnificent convent has many surprises in store for visitors who venture there…

A mystical place in the heart of Pamiers

On June 29, 1648, a delegation of 9 Carmelite sisters arrived in Pamiers with the aim of establishing a new Carmel. Warmly welcomed by the population and by the bishop, they first found old barns and a ^13th century house, Place du Mercadal (“Market Square” in Catalan of Balearic origin). They placed the Blessed Sacrament there and established themselves there little by little, buying up the surrounding houses, gardens and alleys in order to build this ^6000m2 Carmel.

The Carmelites follow the doctrine of Saint Teresa of Avila and devote their lives to work and prayer, in community and in self-sufficiency. In this monastery, they renounce the world, withdraw into silence, the love of Christ and the total gift of self.

The Carmelite sisters left the Carmel for good in 2008 and the Town Hall became its owner in 2012 to restore it and develop it into a cultural space. Fascinating guided tours are now organized to arouse the curiosity of history buffs and tourists passing through Pamiers... but above all to reveal some of the mysteries that the Carmelite convent still hides.

In Pamiers, also visit the Magic Museum, another unusual place to discover to learn everything about conjuring.

The Notre-Dame du Mont Carmel chapel, dating from 1762, has a single nave and side altars in a bright decor in keeping with the Carmelite tradition.

A place full of mystery

Carmel de Pamiers: a jewel of heritage to visit exclusively!

The appointment is made for a guided tour of Carmel in a small group (free), offered once a week in the summer season by the tourist office. An opportunity not to be missed! We meet the other participants in front of the Cathedral, the ideal starting point for exploring Pamiers on foot.

Right in the city center, behind its high walls and its austere porch, the imposing ensemble of Carmel nourishes our imagination. As we enter the door of this sacred place, a feeling of serenity invades us. The convent is organized around a garden with arcades and galleries forming the cloister which dates from 1695. Sobriety and modesty are the key words of this spiritual life.

20km from Pamiers, the Forges de Pyrène take you on a discovery of the old trades of the Ariège industrial era.

The sisters attended prayers behind this grille in the chapel

Corridors

In this solemn place, we discover the austere life of the 30 Carmelite sisters who returned to the order by choice or by punishment. We explore with our guide the different spaces of the nuns' daily lives: the gardens they cultivated, the chapter room (where the tombstones of the Reverend Mothers are located), the refectory, the places of collective life, the chapel, the oratory and visiting rooms to receive their families behind a gate to prevent any physical contact. Upstairs, the dormitories consist of simple ^7m2 cells, with opaque windows for those overlooking the street. You had to protect yourself from the gaze of others or from your own curiosity about the outside world! The details to observe pointed out by our guide are captivating and immerse us in this reclusive and solitary universe.

Visit the Grotte du Mas d'Azil for a fascinating introduction to prehistory and geology in this region full of surprising discoveries!

One of the bedrooms, with a view of the cloister

The parlor for receiving family

The collection of abandoned children at the Carmel of Pamiers

We pass in front of the tower door, symbol of the cloister. This large cylindrical wooden container, equipped with a mechanism allowing it to rotate on itself, limits exchange with the outside world. Often overlooked in the history of the city, the Carmel of Pamiers tower was used for the anonymous abandonment of children. From the moment the babies were placed in the tower, the nuns took responsibility for them until they were placed with a family.

The Pamiers Carmel Tour

We wander the corridors, alleys and gardens of this spiritual place. Calm and serenity reign everywhere. In this islet outside the world, one cannot help but be struck by this monastic way of life of the Carmelites. An hour's visit to be fully savored, like a timeless spiritual parenthesis. A “sacred” moment of emotion !

Did you like Pamiers ? Continue your stay in Ariège with a visit to its most beautiful villages!

Contact the Portes d’Ariège Pyrénées Tourist Office +33 (0) 5 61 67 52 52

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Article and photos produced by Lesley Williamson for the Toulouse Pyrénées Guide