The mysteries of the Cauterets berlingot

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We thought it was a bit old-fashioned, out of fashion, or even downright corny. However, The multi-flavored berlingot, beloved by our grandmothers, still tickles the taste buds today. This artisanal confectionery is the must-have delicacy of the small spa town of Cauterets, in the Pyrenees.

Made according to traditional recipes, this candy is likened to a moment of escape for many, a small, inimitable pleasure. Head to the heights of Cauterets to discover the secrets of its authentic berlingots and discover together the world of these sweets that have survived the centuries.

The Berlingots Marinette confectionery continues this tradition

Cauterets, a mecca of Pyrenean thermalism

In the heart of the Pyrenees National Park, the mountain range unfolds horizons combed with mountains, peaks, canyons and superb valleys. Nestled at the bottom of one of them, Cauterets is a pretty village perched at 967m where icy torrents rush and springs of hot, sulphurous water at 55° spring up. The high-altitude spa village owes its name to this paradox between the hot "caut" and the cold "ret". This has been recognized since the 16th century, notably by Marguerite de Navarre, the sister of François I, who regularly came to take the waters there.

Cauterets experienced a real craze in the 19th century: one could meet illustrious figures like Victor Hugo, Georges Sand, Chateaubriand or Gustave Flaubert in its narrow streets. The spa town gained popularity and the face of the village gradually transformed to accommodate the many socialites, spa guests as well as the thousands of pilgrims from Lourdes who came to stay in Cauterets to visit the nearby Pont d'Espagne. Thus, the town was adorned with pretty promenades, colorful bourgeois architecture, and unobstructed viewpoints for the greatest pleasure of visitors. At the beginning of the 20th century, Cauterets even became the most important spa town in France. But, what about the berlingots in all this?

A luxury product closely linked to thermal baths

Cauterets candy - Photo @ Confiserie Marinette

What's better than a sweet note to alleviate an unpleasant taste in the mouth? Indeed, specialized in the treatment of respiratory ailments, the hot and sulfurous water of Cauterets is used to treat the throat and gives spa guests who drink it, a bitter sensation on the taste buds. Doctors then recommend sucking on a sweet candy to remove this bad taste and optimize the benefits of the treatment. This multicolored candy becomes the very first sugar confectionery in Europe.

At the beginning of the 19th century, all spa towns had their own berlingot factories, a highly prized luxury sweet that became inseparable from spa treatments. In Cauterets, around ten manufacturing workshops were created, producing thousands of berlingots under the eyes of passers-by attracted by the smell of sugar. and the friendly atmosphere.

Visit a candy shop

Today, the berlingot continues to make Cauterets famous!

Made from water, sugar and glucose syrup to which 100% natural flavors and colors are added, its recipe has not changed. The few manufacturers gathered on Avenue du Mamelon Vert proudly perpetuate the tradition with talent, attached to artisanal know-how.

I meet Eric Millet, a confectioner for nearly 20 years, to reveal some secrets of his production in Confiserie Marinette. Lemon, cherry, blackcurrant, blueberry, bergamot, licorice, raspberry, mandarin… The master confectioner offers a wide range of flavors based on fruits, plants and natural essences. Similar to caramel, the sugar-based preparation is put on the fire until it reaches 150 °C, then the syrup is poured and worked on a marble table. The mixture is handled to obtain shades of color and stripes. As it cools, it is rolled and stretched until a homogeneous paste is obtained which is “put into a cord”. The last step is to cut the candy to give it its tetrahedron shape with a “berlingottière”.

Very fun to watch, young and old can even actively participate in these demonstrations before the amazed eyes of visitors!