The ascent of the Col du Tourmalet by bike

On the occasion of the 9th stage of the Tour de France 2020, this Sunday, September 6, between Pau and Laruns, we get on our bikes to climb the Col du Tourmalet, one of the most famous passes in the Pyrenees. Lovers of nature and two wheels, seasoned sportswomen, the objective of this challenge for us is to live a unique experience, usually reserved for professional cyclists. Far from measuring ourselves against a stopwatch, our philosophy combines above all sport, passion, discovery of the territory, conviviality and relaxation, even if it takes us the whole day! An ambitious project certainly... At 2,115 m above sea level, the Col du Tourmalet, also nicknamed the Giant of the Pyrenees, is the second highest road pass in the Pyrenees after the Col de Portet. A look back at a breathtaking challenge !

The Col du Tourmalet: the holy grail for cyclists

The Col du Tourmalet, along with a few other places (Alpe d'Huez, Mont Ventoux, Galibier, etc.), holds a prominent place in the history and mythology of the little queen. The great names of the Tour de France, the legendary race that propelled the Tourmalet to the height of its popularity, fought here. Having ridden it for the first time in the Tour in 1910, Octave Lapize, the winner of the Tour de France that year, even shouted to the organizers "You are murderers!" in reference to this first major stage in the Pyrenees that he won!

Since then, the Col du Tourmalet has been climbed nearly a hundred times by the Tour de France, making it the most frequently crossed pass, across all mountain ranges. That's to say... Climbing it by bike remains a journey to be undertaken, a real challenge and a means of surpassing oneself, regularly taken by storm by groups of amateur cyclists from all over France and Europe.

Physical and mental preparation

"What if we climbed the Col du Tourmalet?" suggested Fanny at the beginning of the summer, my partner from the Hautes-Alpes and a cyclist since she was young. This question will take a few months to make its way through my mind. After a sporty summer, full of hiking, yoga, mountain biking and water sports, I am finally ready to let myself be carried away in this adventure . Good training is necessary to climb the Col du Tourmalet with complete peace of mind. If we reach the summit, it will be a memorable memory ! The day before, we prepare ourselves psychologically for this challenge around a delicious fondue at the Auberge la Couquelle downstream from Barèges, before a good night's sleep.

Auberge la Couquelle to gain strength before the effort!

There are two options for climbing the pass:

• An ascent from the western slope from Luz-Saint-Sauveur or Barèges higher up;
• On the other side of the pass via the eastern slope, from Campan, Bagnères or La Mongie.

Both climbs are technical but have quite different characteristics.

• From the western slope, the climb covers 22.5 km, with a difference in altitude of 1268 m (starting altitude: 660 m - arrival altitude: 2115 m).
• From the eastern slope, the route is 19 km, i.e. 4 km less but with a difference in altitude of 1404 m (starting altitude: 711m - arrival altitude: 2115m).

We opted for the western slope, with an average gradient of 6% compared to 7.4% on the eastern slope (with sections exceeding 10.5% gradient). This detail is not insignificant to save our efforts!

A difficult and winding climb

D-Day! We're in luck, the weather is on our side: overcast skies, mist, and a thermometer reading a mere 17°C. Weather conditions are a key factor to consider when considering the intensity of the effort required. To tackle the Col du Tourmalet, we decide to leave very early in the morning to avoid the heat, which could be fatal to our ascent.

The Col du Tourmalet is not an easy climb. The goal is to climb the pass with a reasonable effort and enjoyment. Our training sessions were tailored to the desired goal. A good warm-up of at least 30 minutes before starting is strongly recommended.

Under our clothes, clearly unsuitable compared to all the cyclists in head-to-toe lycra, we opted for cycling shorts with reinforced seat panels that enhance comfort and minimize chafing. We slather on sunscreen , adjust our helmet, set the height of our saddle, check the condition of our tires and our water reserves one last time... Here we go!

From the Barèges ski resort, the first few kilometers set the tone for the challenge... The exit from Barèges is one of the trickiest sections of this climb with a 9% gradient for a kilometer, but fairly steady. It is punctuated by encounters with cows and sheep. We are definitely in a pastoral area.

A few hairpin bends sharpen the feeling of climbing, and the gradients decrease slightly. To motivate runners, the route is marked with signs indicating the altitude, the average gradient, and most importantly... the distance to the summit.

What follows is an accumulation of pain all the way to the summit! At a slow pace and punctuated by several stops, this climb is a real challenge despite the few bends that offer a little respite and recovery… I literally feel my heart thundering in my chest. On the slopes of the Tourmalet, we are overtaken by many other courageous cyclists, of all ages, both men and women, including many Belgians and Dutch. Some head more or less quickly towards the summit, others speed off on the descent after reaching it.

The road winds through magnificent landscapes and sumptuous pastures for nearly 16 km. 5 km from the summit, the majestic Pic du Midi de Bigorre comes into view as we break through the clouds to continue under a beautiful blue sky. The ultimate suffering, the last kilometer has a 10% gradient, the last hairpin bend is frightening. Several professional photographers are stationed there to take our best portrait during the effort.

Arriving at the summit transforms this real agony into immense joy. We put on dry clothes right after the effort, because keeping clothes wet from sweat promotes colds. Far from the search for performance, we draw on all our resources to surpass ourselves physically and push our limits. A well-deserved rest is essential!

The spectacular view from the summit of the Col du Tourmalet: a wonderful reward

From its 2,115 m altitude, the Col du Tourmalet offers an extraordinary view of the Bastan Valley to the west and the Gripp Valley to the east. We enjoy this panorama while catching our breath and drinking water. The atmosphere among the cyclists is warm, with applause and hugs galore. The pride we feel is truly worth all the effort!

At the summit, a souvenir photo at the foot of the statue erected in homage to Octave Lapise is a must. Two inns allow cyclists and visitors to refresh themselves and eat.

Whether you are with family, friends or a club, this is an exceptional experience to have if you are a cycling enthusiast passing through the Pyrenees!

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Article and photos prepared by Lesley Williamson